Monday, April 30, 2018

Setting Sun, Dorsoduro

After the grim subject of my last post, and before turning to the even lower circle of hell into which this holiday weekend and the Brugnaro misadministration have thrust Venice's besieged residents, it seems best to take a breath and turn our attention to a rare glimpse of local life in a section of Venice which is typically almost completely devoid of it: the pretty but desolate triangle that extends eastward from the Accademia museum to the figure of turning Fortune atop the Punta della Dogana.

It's from a birthday party thrown last week for a friend's young son, complete with a band of live musicians at right (playing mostly old American standards, such as "Take the A Train"). Most, if not all of the musicians actually live in Mestre now, but for one evening at least there was song and talk and the unceasing movement of kindergartners hardly more than a stone's throw from the Guggenheim Museum.


  1. Fun! Family life in Venice. Bringing my 5 yr old granddaughter with me next Spring, and hoping she'll see some wee ones her age at some point during our visit. I will make a point of visiting Campo San Giacomo Dell'Orio during a weekend. Love to watch the children on their scooters or playing ball. Are there any other such places that I should take her to??

    1. I'm remarkably late in replying, Helen, as is all too common for me, so I hope that Anonyomous's very good suggestion below sounds good to you--it does to me. Not far from the Serra there is also a small playground in the Giardini and a larger one on Sant' Elena. In town, in addition to San Giacomo dell' Orio, which you mention, there is also Campo Santa Margherita, and, too a somewhat lesser extent, Campo San Polo (but that's mostly pre-schoolers, I think). The green spaces of the Serra,the Giardini or Sant' Elena are better. Of course, there's also the Lido if the weather is decent, even if it's before the official summer season. A plastic shovel and pail can go a long way there even when it's not yet swimming season...

  2. Helen, I would highly recommend you take her to the Serra dei Giardini in the castello neighborhood. I took my daughter there every afternoon last summer and she had the best of times playing and socializing with the many Venetian kids. Their outdoor space is lovely and there is a a very good cafe where you can unwind while watching the kids playing.