Saturday, March 19, 2011

Video Postcard from Sant' Elena




It was supposed to rain here yesterday but instead was quite beautiful. By the end of the day I was convinced we really had left winter behind--as evidence of which I submit the above. I hadn't planned to shoot any video, and didn't have a tripod, but the light (not least of all on the moving water) was impossible to resist and I hope this at least hints at the look and sound of things here late yesterday afternoon.

The link below is to the same short clips as above, but with better quality:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqbNGyHwzCg

Friday, March 11, 2011

Clueless about Carnevale

Carnevale and spontaneity.

The words, I thought, were almost synonymous. Maybe this was naive of me; maybe whatever I'd read about popular festivals of the past, those periods in so many cultures when the usual order of things was turned upside down, had given me a very wrong idea of what to expect.

I had the mistaken notion that during Carnevale I could show up practically any time at Piazza San Marco and find something going on. They'd built a giant stage in front of the Ala Napoleonica, on which was promised a daily bill of performances, but whenever I managed to get to the Piazza the only thing I ever saw were the same few commercials running in a seemingly infinite loop on the stage's massive Jumbotron tv.

Granted, the various billboards that now deface the Piazza make it seem more like Times Square than the world's grandest drawing room, but I'm not sure the introduction of a big-screen tv was the best way to reintroduce a note of domesticity into the space--regardless of how much, we are told, Italians love to watch their tvs.

So Lesson #1 (which perhaps everyone but me already knew): If you come to Carnevale be sure to get a thorough schedule of events and plan accordingly!

Otherwise on a Friday night in what you (like me) might imagine would be the very thick of Carnevale chaos you'll find yourself roaming through a scene in the Piazza and Piazzetta that resembles nothing so much as a car or boat show: one of those periodic expos held in large convention centers where milling crowds wander desultorily amid various exhibitors, snapping the occasional picture, looking for the next sight of interest.

Don't get me wrong, there are sights of interest: folks concealed in some very elaborate costumes, as well-constructed and flashy and eye-catching as some Alfa Romeo or Jaguar or Ford car-of-the-future prototype poised on its own private stage. But equally as idle.

The scheduled events I attended I did enjoy: even something as quiet as one of the guided tours of L'Archivo di Stato di Venezia near I Frari. And the Carnevale dei Ragazzi, open daily for the full run of Carnevale in the main exhibition hall of the Biennale, was really marvelous. Each room in the large hall was devoted to a different creative theme or activity, and they ranged from high-tech interactive installations to limitless supplies of paper, glue, scissors, pencils and colored markers, as well as a main stage with live performances. This was the place to go for spontaneity.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Carnevale Fatalities

Front page news in the local Venice paper today: another body found floating in a canal this morning--the second of this Carnevale season.

It sounds--and the headline looked--exactly like something out of the old Donald Sutherland/Julie Christie movie Don't Look Now. But there is no murderer roaming the calli, nor is this, unfortunately, just a film adaptation of a work of fiction.

No, instead, every Carnevale it seems that at least a couple of tourists drink too much and fall into a canal on their way home at night. Even during Carnevale, Venice is hardly New York City: it's easy to find yourself walking in silent isolation at night even just a short way from Piazza San Marco. There are plenty of stretches of canal with no barrier or railing between the stones of a fondamenta and the water, and if one is bundled up in winter wear and inebriated even a decent swimmer might immediately find him- or herself in serious trouble.

There's so little crime in Venice perhaps it's easy to get lulled into a false sense of complete safety, and the environment has been so well urbanized for so long that the ever-present water of the canals probably seems too fully domesticated to feel the least bit dangerous. 

As far as I can recall, no guidebooks warn of this. Perhaps it seems obvious?

But, unfortunately, not always obvious enough...

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

2 Terms of Endearment Best Avoided in English

Term 1: Vecia (Venetian)

Recently Jen and I went with a friend to the funeral of her great uncle at the church of S. Zaccaria. He was the co-founder of what she claims was the first pizzeria in Venezia in the nearby campiello of S. Provolo. This is something I'll have to verify, but that's not my concern right now. Nor do I want to tell you about the mass--during which Giovanni Bellini's sublime side altarpiece was lit throughout (as opposed to the brief intervals doled out by the coin-op boxes), and the eulogy by the brother of the deceased received a hearty round of applause--but something that happened as we made our way back toward the Riva with our friend, a woman in her 30s.

Our friend knows many people in Venice, which is, after all, quite a small town, and one of them, a man of about 40, happened to pass and greeted her with "Ciao, vecia." (Pronounced something like the way an English speaker would say "vetcha.")

Our friend said ciao in return and as we walked on told us, "That's a Venetian word."

Jen said, "It sounds kind of like the Italian word that means 'old lady."

"Well, it's the Venetian version of that word," our friend told us.

"You mean he just called you an old lady!" Jen said.

"No, no, that's not what he meant. It's vecia mia--as in 'my old friend'. But we leave off mia. It's an expression of affection."

I repeated the word.

Jen turned and warned me: "Don't even think about it."

Term 2: Ciccia (Italian)

We spent 3 months last winter in Piemonte working on an organic vineyard owned by a husband and wife with two young sons. The husband often addressed his wife as "ciccia," which was not her name. We did not know much Italian and thought nothing of it--I don't think I even caught what he was saying--until a young American woman from New Jersey came to volunteer on the farm for 2 weeks.

Her father had been born and raised in Italy and from him she had acquired something very close to fluency in the language. Very close, but not exactly. Which is why one day as we were all planting young lettuce she said, with more than a little disapproval, "Have you ever noticed how X [the husband] calls his wife 'chubby' all the time?"

We had not.

"That's what ciccia means," she explained. "Actually, it's not all that nice. My father used to tell me it means something kind of like 'fat ass'".

The things we had missed at the dinner table because of our inadequate language skills! She was able to fill us in. Her father had not neglected to educate her in the full range of the Italian language.

Yet he was from the south of Italy and perhaps the usage of the same word--or at least its over- and undertones--can change from region to region.

For when I asked my cousin, an architect who lived nearby in Piemonte, about ciccia, his sense of it was nowhere near as earthy.

"Yes, ciccia," he said, "it's used a lot. It's kind of like 'dear.' It's a term of affection."

"But doesn't the word mean that you're fat?" I asked.

He thought a few moments. "Well, yes, it can mean that," he said. He pinched the skin of his waist between two fingers and said, "It can mean fleshy, yes, and to put on weight. But that meaning never occurred to me. It's just, you know, like 'dear'. It's what you call your girlfriend or your wife."

Perhaps if both of you were raised in Piemonte, for example. But for the rest of us it's probably just asking for trouble.

Friday, February 25, 2011

Reds


One of my favorite juxtapositions in Castello, outside the Communist Party headquarters at the corner of Corte Nuova and Fondamenta Rio Della Tana.

A peek through the windows around the corner on the fondamenta reveals the small interior of what in NYC would be a pretty cool dive bar, walls covered with framed b/w photos of Che Guevara. (Alas, none of them autographed from what I could see.) No sign, however, of the great martyred Sardinian Marxist anti-fascist Antonio Gramsci--though he represented the Veneto in the 1920s. I'll have to look more closely.

Pane e Carnevale


The window of a panetteria in Castello celebrates the beginning of Carnevale.

I have to admit that at first sight it made me think more of the old cult film The Wicker Man than Carnevale. Then I was struck by the resemblance of the center-most rear mask to James Joyce. I don't think either of these things were what the bakers intended but I admire them for these effects anyway...