Saturday, October 13, 2012

S. Giovanni in Bragora & Venice for Insomniacs


One of the things I think about when I find myself lying awake in bed unable to sleep are topics to think about the next time I find myself lying awake in bed unable to sleep. As a couple of these topics are Venetian specific, I'll share them here--in the hope they might prove diverting to any other Venice-loving insomniacs out there.

A fairly simple obsessional-compulsive topic (which, of course, is the only kind of topic for an insomniac) was inspired by a low-budget indie movie of some years back entitled All the Vermeers in New York. It takes the form of a challenge:

Mentally catalog all the places in the lagoon with at least one work by Giovanni Bellini (I say "in the lagoon" as there's at least one excellent altarpiece of his on another island than Venice). For each place list all of the works.

Another more involved topic revolves around how challenging Venice is for those with restricted mobility. I used to think that Venice would be almost impossible to see if one couldn't get around on foot, but I then realized I was being unnecessarily defeatist. I now think, in fact, that one can see a good amount of the city with the use of the vaporetto and a wheelchair, and when I really can't sleep I sometimes set myself the challenge of imagining in detail, for one vaporetto route after another, stop by stop, how far one can roll from the water before one encounters a bridge. So, for example, in terms of the number 1 line, I was happy to realize that there is nothing to prevent a person in a wheelchair from reaching I Frari from the San Tomà vaporetto stop. They can also reach the nearby Scuola of San Rocco, but then, unfortunately, the stairs at that site's entrance, as well as the stairs within, are major obstacles.

This morning, having awakened far earlier than planned or hoped, I thought of both of the above topics (along with many other pointless things besides), then simply decided to get up and get out--though rain was falling and the sun hadn't yet risen.

I spent a lot of time watching Campo Santa Maria Formosa slowly fill, first, with weak drizzly light, then with people, and then around 9 am ended up in one of my favorite churches in the city, San Giovanni in Bragora, where I took the two photos accompanying this post and thought of another obsessional-compulsive challenge for the next time I can't fall back asleep:

Catalog all the works (along with their locations) by Cima da Conegliano in Venice.

There are of course two beautiful ones in Giovanni in Bragora (one of which is visible in the photos). And this morning I felt infinitely lucky to be able to look at them in person, instead of calling them to mind while I lay uncomfortably in a sleepless bed.


12 comments:

  1. Nippy, autumnal greetings from Manhattan!

    The day I found your blog, I started reading and couldn't stop until I'd read every entry from the beginning. I enjoy your writing so much.

    My first trip to Venice was in 1984, and for the next twelve years I couldn't stay away, couldn't imagine vacationing anywhere else. Then life intervened, money got tight....and, and, and.

    It's such a pleasure seeing the city through your eyes. You and Venice are a great fit.

    Brooks

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    1. Thank you very much, Brooks, for your very kind comments. It's a different kind of writing than what I've often done, so it's very nice to hear that you enjoy it. A relief, actually. Venice deserves to be well-presented, so if you think I'm doing that, then I'm happy.

      NYC (ie, Manhattan), as the old song says, is wonderful in autumn. For many years I never wanted to live anywhere else--or even leave it--during any season (not even in August).

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    2. I'm a sucker for autumn anywhere.

      NYC has changed enormously in the decades I've lived here. A city once gritty, eccentric, and thrillingly egalitarian has turned bland, glossy, and corporatized. But that's a discussion for another time!

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    3. That's my (sad) opinion of NYC also--how I wish it weren't the case.

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  2. Brooks, I am so glad you found this (top-notch) blog, and echo your comments about the writing and the topic. I do believe there are many admirers out there.

    Yvonne

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    1. Yvonne,

      You make me blush (quite literally). Not that I'm complaining about that. There's some kind of bug going around here, so my sickly pale face can most certainly use the color.

      Thank you.

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  3. Thanks for the greeting, Yvonne. Indeed, this is a top-notch blog.

    I've bought three lottery tickets in my life (haven't won, strangely), but may give it one last shot. This blog has rekindled my old ache to live in Venice.

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    1. I wonder what you'd think of the city now, Brooks, after having last seen it in--if my math is correct--about 1996. Here's wishing you the best of luck if you decide to buy that lottery ticket!

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    2. Thank you! In buying a fourth lottery ticket, I'm signaling to the universe that it's never too late to make up for past slights.



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    3. Well, here's hoping it's paying attention this time!

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  4. I love that Cima! Love this post too. Makes me think that insomnia is more fun if you're having it in Venice. :)

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    1. If you can eventually get up and go look at that Cima, then, yes, Annie, it may be a bit more fun if you're not sleeping in Venice, but in the dead of night I fear it's the same everywhere!

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