words and pics about living in, and raising a child in, Venice
We have a large postcard of the Bellini on our fridge! Every time I see it I curse Napoleon for cutting off the top. I think it should be restored but I guess that won't happen. I also have to look at the remains of Athanasius and Zachariah. I always think they look as though they're in bunk beds! Did they argue who should have the top one?
The Churches of Venice site notes that the French performed some miraculous process of transferring the Bellini from its wood panel to canvas that resulted in its being in much better shape now than it would have otherwise been. But the same site also notes that others have disputed such an idea--so who knows? But there's enough to be mad at Napoleon about if you like Venice even w/out this Bellini issue. How about the huge Veronese the French have in the Louvre? Yes, you're right, they do look like bunks! I suspect the older of the two got the top, as usual?
I love to sit and contemplate this "Sacred Conversation". San Zaccaria is one of my favorite churches, possibly because on our first two visits to Venice, our room had a small balcony overlooking the campo. Have you been inside the crypt? I haven't managed to do that yet, it is a long-held desire.
That's a beautiful campo--what a great view for your introduction to the city! I can spend a very long time with the conversation as well, and never seem to get tired of it. I have been in the crypt some time back. The last couple of times I went last week it was under quite a lot of water.
There was a very irritable guy on duty at the entrance to the Sacristy. I've encountered quite a few of such attendants inside the Venetian landmarks, they seem to be far from enjoying their work - and glower at the visitors, who are mostly gawkers without a clue, but hardly merit such vehemence. It's very good there is another sort too - I had a very pleasant chat with a guy at the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, he was very friendly - and tolerant of my lame Italian.
I believe I know the irritable guy you're referring to, but visiting the church on 2 consecutive days last week led me to believe that, actually, he's more shy & awkward than intentionally irritable. Or perhaps his shyness & awkwardness manifests itself as irritability, for when he saw how interested I was in the church I think he made an effort to be a little nicer. I STILL have not gone to la scuola di S Girgio! I keep waiting for a time to go with Jen, but I'm just going to go myself.