Friday, October 10, 2025

On Indefinite Hiatus: Something of an Explanation

13 October 2017
 

After regularly posting to this blog for 14 years, last April I found I no longer felt the urge to do so. Given the cruelty, criminality, and corruption of the American regime that had taken power in January, I found it both painful and pointless to back look over both a past and a place that I very much missed. I thought this feeling might pass. But as the cruelty, criminality, and corruption have only intensified since then, it has not.

Of course the Venice that now exists is no longer the Venice I lived in for nearly 11 years. When I visited in the summer of 2024--for the the first time since leaving in summer 2021--I was dismayed by its further degradation. Napoleon had famously threatened to be "an Attila to Venice" and wipe it out, but it has been Luigi Brugnaro, a predatory self-serving businessman from the mainland, who has carried that threat out. 

In sharp contrast to his long ago campaign promise to pursue policies designed to increase the city's resident population by 30,000, the city's population has continued to dwindle as he has gutted--or attempted to gut--vital services upon which residents depend. Last summer I found that more than a dozen people I knew, most of whom still worked in Venice itself, had moved to the mainland. People I'd never imagined would ever leave the city no longer saw the point in living in a place steadily being scoured of all local life and businesses. 

It seems, in fact, that Brugnaro's actual promise in that long-ago campaign was to reduce the city's resident population to 30,000. 

On that promise, he's made significant progress. He's now gotten it down to less than 48,000, and continues to be hard at work. 

Last summer the Rialto market was a ghost town, with just 3 or maybe 4 legitimate produce sellers--by which I mean, stalls that stock a wide range of fresh produce. The few other stalls that exist sell packaged soup mixes and little else. Like all the mask shops and other garbage businesses that now fill the city, it's hard for me to believe they function as anything other than money-laundering fronts, so meager is their inventory. 

Perhaps some day this sad state of affairs in Venice will make my documentation of the last years of local daily life in Venice of some interest. But at present what people seem to want see of Venice is the same old fantasy world of lonely streets and moody, romantic decay--or class-porn, envy-inducing accounts of luxury living. I'm happy to leave that to others. 

Meanwhile in America the seriousness of the authoritarian steps being taken cannot be overstated--even as the only people to whom Americans seem to listen is late-night talk-show host comedians. Public discourse is degraded and corrupted, devoid of critical thinking, which is of course exactly as the regime would like it to be: after all, the goal, in the words of one of its most successfully-self-promoting architects, is to "flood the zone with s--t."

In such a "flooded" country, in which every utterance and observable occurrence is dismissed as "fake", the only measure of meaning is is the brute power to impose one's agenda. The only "true" statement, the only fact, is whatever the dictator declares. Which of course, can be altered in the very next sentence--and still remain the only "truth." 

This is not new in this country. As Judith Butler discussed in her vitally-important (but little read) 2004 book, Precarious Life,  it was George W. Bush who first openly claimed the divine infallible right to obliterate the existence of any given individual he chose without troubling to present even a shred of evidence, much less go to trial. It sufficed for him to simply declare one an "enemy combatant" to disappear that person from the land of the living, to an unreachable realm in which neither national or international law held any sway. (The masked paramilitary force called ICE is now exercising a similarly unchecked power.)

America's current authoritarian has expanded this divine (or demoniacal) right--with the blessings of America's Supreme[ly corrupt Catholic kangaroo] Court--beyond all limitations. He declares a boatload of people drug smugglers ("narco-terrorists") and they are immediately murdered in violation of both international and American law. 

His administration has now intensified their practice of labeling American citizens "terrorists", and intensified their harassment of them

The administration has declared certain American cities "war zones" and "terrorist havens" and sent in the military and National Guard. If Americans had any memory of simply their own recent history--much less world history (which, of course, is too much to ask), they wouldn't have much trouble figuring out where this is heading.  

But of course they won't get much help in doing that from the US media, since 6 conglomerates have owned 90% of American media since 2011:

GE/Comcast (NBC, Universal), News Corp (Fox News, Wall Street Journal, New York Post), Disney (ABC, ESPN, Pixar), Viacom (MTV, BET, Paramount Pictures), Time Warner (CNN, HBO, Warner Bros.), and CBS (Showtime, NFL.com). Almost all of which have shown a remarkable willingness to succumb to the (often extortionate) demands of the current regime. 

In 1984, 50 independent media companies owned the majority of media interests within the United States.

I'd like to imagine any American who believes in the country's supposed commitment to a Free Press and the free market, would find this extremely troubling. 

In any case, this is why the blog is on an indefinite hiatus. 

A few months ago, a friend asked me if I had any recommendations about what to do in Venice that she could pass along to a friend of hers who was to visit it last July. Because the first thought that popped into my head was "Don't bother to go," I didn't say anything at all.

As for visiting America? Given the "detainment" (that is, jailing) of a number of visitors to America on the slightest pretexts, I'll leave the decision to you. 

Wednesday, April 30, 2025

"No Pleasure But Meanness" (Postcards from America)

All images taken in the quaint, well-to-do town of Farmville, VA, 18 April 2025

By this time, evidence that the United States has become a country for which it can be hazardous for international tourists merely to visit has become widespread enough to significantly affect the country's tourism revenue. And I'm sorry to personally attest that the reasons one now hears to avoid the US are real.

 
I've found it telling that one of the common ways Americans now conclude a conversation or email is with the phrase "Be safe." Never in my life here have I heard this used as it has been the last couple of years here, and I always find it hard not to ask why anyone would be assuming the kind of danger that would necessitate such a wish. We are not in Gaza or the West Bank, not in Kiev, not even in the neighborhoods in which the Republican regime's ICE (Immigration and Customs Enforcement) now kidnap people off the street, out of workplaces and schools and churches (a lawless policy of what used to be known in Latin America as "disappearing" that the cowardly and complicit US press now obediently euphemises as "deporting"). In reply to these words I always want to ask, especially of those who see no criminality in the current regime's actions, "What threat do you now imagine to be omnipresent?"
 
But Americans are frightened now, and seem to have become addicted to being frightened, as it is the engine that drives politics, economics, and social media. President Franklin D Roosevelt's famous admonition that "We have nothing to fear but fear itself," has been perverted into something like "There's only one thing from which we can constantly profit, and that is fear itself."
 
Of course there are concrete reasons to be fearful of the damage that the current regime and Republican Party are determined to inflict upon this country and its people (and the world)--though indignation and disgust and a commitment to the rule of law would better motivate the proper responses to them, I suspect.  

"Paranoia," Adam Phillips writes, "is a self cure for insignificance. The modern paranoiac invites persecution out of fear of invisibility. Te be hated makes him feel real: he has made his presence felt. To be unforgivable is to be unforgettable. As an object of hatred one is exceptionally vivid to other people." Being hated, believing oneself to be a target of envy, for example, or of vast conspiracies, is proof that one actually exists--even as the society in which you actually live disenfranchises you in countless ways.
 
 I've never been very fond of the writer Flannery O'Connor, but I've been reading her lately for her attention to what she terms "all the violence and grotesquery and religious enthusiasm" that in her day (the '50s and '60s) could still reassuringly (and falsely) be localized in the American South. All the violence and grotesquery and religious lunacy is now blatantly a national matter, and O'Connor--not least of all because of what I consider her own religious excesses (she proudly described her writing as being "watered and fed by [Catholic] dogma" and likely would've detested the recently-deceased Pope Francis)--seems to give voice to some of its roots. 

It is from O'Connor, from the mouth of a mass murderer character in her story "A Good Man Is Hard to Find," that the title of this post comes. It's one way of summarizing the feel of American society these days, and of the great challenge of what must be overcome.
 

It must be noted here that, contrary to the assertion of the circular sign in the window above, there is absolutely no evidence that the prevalence of guns in the US does anything other than kill more people than would otherwise die.



Monday, April 28, 2025

Up from the Shallows, Momentarily

A curious (or recklessly hungry) crab holds onto a stick for a few seconds before coming to his senses and dropping back into the water of the Arsenale (27 April 2014)

Thursday, April 24, 2025

Monday, April 21, 2025

The Impostor (21 April 2015)


It's been ten years since I took this picture outside Santa Maria della Salute and at least 5 years since its subject was repeatedly exposed in Venetian papers as a spry able-bodied fellow who, when not working, showed not the least hint of any physical infirmity or impediment. 
 
My wife and I had seen him in Venice ever since arriving in 2010 and were uneasy when one of the first Venetian friends we made used to say she'd like to give him a good swift kick in the butt, as he was a complete fraud. Because this new friend liked to make bold statements that sometimes lacked foundation, we didn't really believe her. But in this case, at least, she was right.
 
The somewhat surprising thing was that even after numerous articles--complete with photos of him when he was not at work--had been published in the local paper, he continued to ply his trade in Venice (to which he commuted to work from someplace I've now forgotten). I suppose that, like Venetian restaurants whose food is notoriously bad, his income depended upon an unending stream of fresh tourists without the slightest clue about what was common local knowledge.
 
Yet I never felt the urge to give him a good swift kick for pretending to be something he wasn't, nor did I think he was "getting away" with not doing real work. His intentionally splayed feet, his contorted posture, his quivering arms--all of it, we were told, was fraudulent. But it never looked like easy work to me, and certainly no way I'd like to spend my days. He was earning whatever money he made, in his own way--and I wouldn't be surprised if he's still at it in Venice.

Tuesday, April 8, 2025

Calcio, Campo Santa Margherita: 8 April 2012

These kids are now adults--I wonder how many of them still live in Venice. And I wonder if kids today can still play like this in the campo, as a few years ago non-resident/Mr-conflict-of-interest Mayor Brugnaro began to crack down on play in the public spaces, since so much of the space had been given over to restaurants for seating. In other words, in order to allow tourists the "authentic experience" of dining in a Venetian campo, what little remained of spontaneous, authentic Venetian life had to be eradicated. This is the perverse and destructive logic of mass tourism.     

Sunday, March 30, 2025

What News on the Rialto?: Ruga dei Oresi (Color)

I posted a not-very-good b/w version of this 7 years ago and wanted to see if I could do better with color now (taken 4 March 2018)

Wednesday, March 19, 2025

Ritratto di un Uomo Libero: Gigi Miracol

21 March 2014
Gigi Miracol, who, like Odysseus, might truly be called a "man of many ways" (in the ancient Greek sense of abilities/skills) and who was an important contributor to many of the events I covered in this blog--as in this winemaking video, for example, in which he provides the live accompaniment, and for the celebration of the spring equinox above--is now the eponymous subject of a documentary whose Italian title I've borrowed for this post itself (Portrait of a Free Man, in English). 

It's been recently screened in Venice and other places in Italy, and you can watch its trailer here

Monday, March 3, 2025

Life Amidst Death: Pruning Time on San Michele

Those many people who can only conceive of Venice as a symbol of death and decay have obviously never been behind the walls of the historic city, nor of those on the cemetery island of San Michele, where an old vineyard has been lovingly restored and is producing wine. You'll find a list of links to posts about such goings on and about the group responsible for them at the end of this post about the man who was the original driving force behind it: Flavio Franceshet. (6 March 2014)    

Sunday, February 23, 2025

A Telephoto View of Short-Sightedness

Building all the industry right on the edge of lagoon didn't turn out to to be the best idea--either for the air or the water of the city. (19 November 2018)

Sunday, February 16, 2025

Pescheria di Rialto, alla Mattina

In the early morning, amidst columns and arches and foggy light, with its blues and reds, the ordinary can sometimes look like an altarpiece: "I will make you fish(sell)ers of men...." (Though it should be noted that many of the young men now working in the remaining fish stalls are Eastern European, as young Venetians, I was told, can no longer abide the very early hours or smells of the job. 13 October 2017)

Sunday, February 9, 2025

Dance in the Palazzo Contarini-Polignac

The dance troupe of the Isadora Duncan International Institute performs in the androne of Palazzo Contarini-Polignac, the former home of Duncan's patron Winnaretta Singer (9 February 2018).

Saturday, February 1, 2025

Misty Morning, Grand Canal

30 January 2017

I haven't posted here for quite some, and have actually not been inclined to do so since the American election in early November. My disgust over its outcome was such that it took up much of my attention, and left little available to think about Venice and my life there. The past seemed irrelevant given the nightmarish present and the alacrity with which the American media bowed down to even the most fascistic impulses, statements, and acts of the incoming administration. (Of course, this is the obvious danger when 90% of America's media is owned by 6 corporate conglomerates. Freedom of the press quickly becomes a thing of the past, as do broader freedoms.) I also had two manuscripts I was in the process of revising. One of them, my second children's picture book, sold in December to a US publisher who hopes to bring it out in spring of 2026. The other, a novel for adults, I've just finished revising and given to my agent. 

In any case, I'm going to make an effort to return to combing through my much-too-large collection of un-posted and unedited images of Venice, in spite of the concerns that come with living in a country in the midst of becoming a mafia state, in which corruption and extortion and the threat (and use of) violence against the most vulnerable of the country's very own citizens are openly practiced and boasted about by those occupying the highest offices in the land. 

But that's enough about all that for now. The above is an image of what was my family's regular morning view for the last 5 years of our life in Venice. Do I miss it? Very very much.