I recently happened upon a cable news network's list of the "World's 7 Coolest Commutes" and though each of them mentioned seemed interesting--and most in their brevity rather stretched what I think of as the standard meaning of the word "commute"--I wasn't sure that any one of them had much on Venice's vaporetto service.
There was one aquatic commute mentioned, the Walberswick ferry in Suffolk: the last rowed ferry in the UK, which is a 5-minute passage in a boat carrying just 11 people across the mouth of the Blythe River. This, I suppose, is comparable to Venice's traghetti, which are mostly used by Venetians to cross the Grand Canal, though the Walberswick ferry is rowed by just one person, seated and facing backward (while traghetti are rowed by two people, standing and facing forward). Though it sounds quite fun and picturesque, I wonder how many commuters actually use it.
But thousands of Venetian commuters rely upon the vaporetti and, to say nothing of the views, no matter how stressed I may be when I board a vaporetto, after watching the movement of the water all around me, the rolling wakes of passing boats, the spray off the bow or the bubbling engine tumult seen from a seat in the stern, the sparkle of sunlight or luster of lamplight upon the water, I never fail to disembark feeling better.
I couldn't agree more. Whenever I visit Venice I always stay in Murano just so I can use the boats to travel into Venice - it's such a lovely experince - both day and night
ReplyDeleteI think the thing I might miss most if I left Venice, Anneka, even more than all the countless great works of art and all, is the water, and the public transportation! I think it's a good idea to stay in Murano, which really is, still, a different world then, with a different feel from, Venice
DeleteI always gave the rides for granted until I moved away. Now I position myself in the best spots to see as much as I can of the water and the buildings, I never get tired of it.
ReplyDeleteI am not sure the commute into the city of San Francisco across the Golden Gate bridge is among the 7 you mentioned, but when I worked in the city I always looked up from my bus seat to look towards one of the most breathtaking cities I have seen.
It's probably inevitable if you live here to take such rides for granted, it probably can't be helped. And sometimes I must stop myself from reading something on the vaporetto as if I'm on a subway with nothing to see.
DeleteThey didn't mention the Golden Gate, Laura, they focused on more obscure things, but I agree with you about the view. You make me think, too, of my grandmother who took the ferry from Sausalito into the city (or the City, as we native Northern Californians write it) before the Golden Gate was built--and when Sausolito was still low-rent & immigrant.
I couldn't agree more. The following is what I wrote in an article about studying Italian in Venice:
ReplyDeleteSince I was staying on Giudecca island at Il Redentore guest-house, my daily commute was by vaporetto over the Giudecca canal to Zattere and then a short walk to the Campo Santa Margherita, followed by a cappucino at a local café. I can think of worse ways to start the day!
I think, as you suggest, Rosalind, that every day one gets a chance to take at least a little trip on the water is a good day. Or at least better than it would have seemed without the trip....
DeleteIn my town (Alkmaar-Holland), a part of the old centre was cut off by a canal about 100 years ago. This part is now some sort of an island and is connected with the main part of the old town with a ferry. You can go around it by bike over a bridge but most people who live here prefer to take the ferry. Many of them with their bikes (against the rules, but this is Holland so everybody is happy with it as long as you say "hi"and "by" to the captain). It docks at the end of one of the oldest streets of Alkmaar that is - since 1500 - called "Fnidsen" (derived from "Venezia"). Thanks to the actions of the inhabbitants the ferry is still free of charge. So allmost every day i hop on the boat and get off at "Venezia" wich really resembles a long and small "calle" and ends at a cluster of canals and old bridges. And all carfree. Maybe thats why i feel very at ease in Venice (apart from its uniquiness).
ReplyDeleteI'm embarrassed to say I'd never heard of Alkmaar, Marc, so I'm very happy to learn of it and thank you very much for commenting. I've been looking at photos of it online, and how beautiful it is! It's also interesting that a town that goes back so long itself, and with so much of its own history, has that link to Venice. It sounds like the Alkmaar ferry also deserves a place on the list of the "World's Coolest Commutes," not least of all because citizens have joined together to keep it free. I look forward to seeing it (and taking it) some day myself.
DeleteYou mention lamplight and I wonder if Venice is still lit by dim old-fashioned lamps as it was when I arrived by vaporetto at St Mark's Square at midnight (twenty years ago!) The most atmospheric arrival I ever experienced....lovely blog - thank you.
ReplyDeleteThere are still the lamps, Freda, but I'm not sure they're quite so dim as they once were. Perhaps someone else with a longer experience of the city than I have can answer that. They put new lights into the lamps around where we live and at first I was a bit disconcerted by the difference--not just in the quality of light, but I think the new lights are smaller and don't require the glass that used to surround old-fashioned street lamps. But I'm pretty sure they've kept the glass in the lamps around San Marco, and even if they are a bit brighter, or their color has changed a bit, I still find the sight, as you say, most atmospheric. (Especially in the fog.)
DeleteThanks for your kind comment.
I second you. The city of Venice relies on vaporetti and if that can't be cool then I don't know what is! Love the way everything is handled in Venice even with throngs of tourists every year.
ReplyDeleteDefinitely: almost without exception I find the way the people who work on the vaporetti deal with the throngs to be quite impressive!
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