Even the "small" 33,000 ton cruise ship, the Silver Spirit, looms large over Venice's Via Garibaldi |
It was the best of
decisions. It was the worst of decisions.
It was, if you
believe Italy’s Transport Minster Maurizio Lupi, a triumph for the city of
Venice. It was he who announced on August 8 that beginning in 2015 monstrous
cruise ships of over 96,000 tons would no longer be allowed to pass through the
heart of the city and that an alternate route would be dredged at its
south-western edge. Venice lovers everywhere, including the 60 high-profile celebrities
who signed an open letter decrying big ships to Italy’s prime minister in late
June, were encouraged to rejoice.
Many Venetians,
however, did not. Many of them found it quite odd, if not downright suspicious,
that this long-awaited meeting of the special inter-ministerial committee
assigned to decide issues concerning Venice (the Comitatone) was announced only the afternoon before it took place,
and that its decision was released on a sleepy Friday afternoon well into
August, when it was sure to receive the least possible attention—and scrutiny
by the press.
In fact, press
coverage of this issue has been surprisingly superficial since the Italian
government’s first attempt to impose new regulations on cruise ship traffic in
November 2013 (which was subsequently overturned by a regional court). A
perusal of most news reports might easily lead one to believe that all big ships would be forbidden to pass
through the basin of San Marco (within 1,000 feet of the Doges’ Palace.) Even
the video reports of a respected news outlet like the BBC have included
misleading footage of large ships under 96,000 tons that would be unaffected by
the proposed ban.
In truth, though
the new regulations are supposed to decrease traffic by 20%, there has never
been a ban on all big ships sailing through the basin of San Marco and down the
Giudecca Canal—only the most absurdly humongous. What would appear in the
context of Venice to be a very big ship indeed to most of us (do a web search,
for example, on the 77,000 ton P&O Cruises Oceana) will still be perfectly free to ply that route through the
historic center.
This question of
how big is “big,” has always been one problem with the proposed regulations. But
it’s not what Venetians are upset about right now, nor what motivated some of
them to create an online petition calling upon Prime Minister Matteo Renzi to
put a halt to the proposed dredging of the new canal. The petition garnered over
10,000 signatures in just the first 11 hours after it was posted last week, and
that number has now surpassed 24,000. You can read (and sign) the petition in
English or Italian by clicking on one of the following: Petition (English)
or
Petition (Italiano).
Last week I spoke
with one of the petition’s creators, Jane Da Mosto, environmental scientist and
author (with Caroline Fletcher) of The
Science of Saving Venice and contributor to The Venice Report, two of the most informative and well-researched
books published on contemporary Venice and the challenges it faces. “One of the
things that is so disturbing about the government’s decision” she told me, “is
that it will potentially have the most profound effects on the well-being of
Venice, yet it was made in Rome not only without the input of any Venetian representative,
but without considering up-to-date scientific, technical and economic
assessments.”
Environmental scientist, author, and long-time Venice resident, Jane Da Mosto |
She reminded me
that Venice has been without a mayor since June, when Giorgio Orsoni was
arrested on corruption charges, and told me that the bureaucrat appointed by
Rome’s Minister of Internal Affairs to oversee city operations until a new
mayor can be elected abstained from voting on the cruise ship proposal. She
seemed to have little doubt that the opinions of Venice’s Port Authority, which
claims to have poured 200 million euros in recent years into the expansion of
cruise ship terminals at the city’s western end, and is strongly in favor of
dredging a new deep channel to them, were well represented at the Comitatone meetings.
But politics
aside, her concern is that dredging a wide deep canal out of what at present is
a typically small meandering lagoon channel (the Canale Contorta) may very well cause more damage to the well-being
of the lagoon and the structural integrity of the city than the gargantuan ships
now passing through the basin of San Marco. “UNESCO designates Venice and its
lagoon as a World Heritage Site, not simply Venice,” she said “and in doing
this it recognizes that the health of the city has always been inseparable from
the health of the lagoon.”
“Venetians
have been altering the lagoon for centuries,” she continued. “The whole thing
would have silted up and become terra
ferma if they hadn’t begun a massive project of diverting rivers in the 14th
century. But it’s now been well-documented that the dredging of deep water
channels that began in the early 20th century has changed the lagoon
in damaging ways.”
“The extensive mud
flats and salt marshes that once characterized the lagoon have been literally
washed out to sea by the strong currents carried by such deep shipping channels
as the Canale dei Petroli. The mud
flats and marshes cover just 1/3 of the area they did at the end of the 19th
century. And this isn’t just bad news for wildlife, it’s very bad news for all
the buildings that people come to Venice to see, as those mud flats used to
moderate wave energy sweeping in from the Adriatic. The irregular shallows of
the lagoon used to dampen the intensity of acqua
alta. But the lagoon, especially its southern half, where the new channel
would be dredged, has become a deep clean-scrubbed salt-water bay. Tides coming
into and going out of the lagoon have become more damaging.”
“This is a fact on
which there is no disagreement, even here where everyone loves to disagree.
Venice has spent a great deal of money in recent years to create new mudflats.
You can see the heavy machinery at work right now on a massive project near
Certosa. So why in the world would you dredge a canal on one side of the city
that is likely to create the disastrous effects you are working to counteract
on the other?”
She
told me me that an environmental impact assessment of the proposed new canal
must be completed within 90 days of the August 8 announcement of the proposal.
I asked whether this means the plan will be scrapped if the assessment finds
the dredging is likely to be harmful. She looked dubious and replied, “In
theory, yes. But there are plenty of big projects that have gone forward in
spite of negative environmental impact assessments. MOSE (the massive multi-billion
euro flood gates at the mouths of the lagoon) received a negative assessment.
But they went ahead with it anyway.”
Moreover,
the Cruise Line International Association, while praising Rome’s decision in
the greenest of terms in the August 13 edition of Britain’s Daily Telegraph Travel Section (going so
far as to use the phrase “sustainable solution” twice in a single sentence),
emphasized that “the new project must be developed in a timely manner” lest
Venice be left off the 2015 itineraries of its largest ships (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/cruises/11030820/Cruise-industry-urges-swift-solution-for-Venice-ship-ban.html). The clock, in
other words, is ticking.
I
asked Da Mosto what decision she would reach about the big ships if she had
sole authority to make it. “I don’t know what final decision I’d reach,” she
answered, “but I do know that a valid one on such an important long-ranging
matter can only be reached after a proper study of the various options
available. This means a thorough and well-founded examination of the costs and
benefits of each option, based upon research performed by disinterested experts,
rather than outdated studies often commissioned by those with a vested
interest, such as the Port Authority itself. The decision must involve due
process, and the process itself must be transparent and available to public
consideration. As it is, though the environmental impact assessment cannot be
undertaken before a concrete proposal is submitted, and though the Director of
the Port Authority, Paolo Costa, has stated that such a proposal for the
dredging was finalized on August 11, absolutely no one anywhere has been able
to obtain a copy of it!”
“In a city reeling
from the widespread corruption of the MOSE project--our mayor having been
arrested, more than 30 others facing charges, 100 more under investigation—even
the appearance of secrecy is the last
thing we need.”
“I would like to
really know what comes in and what goes out with the cruise ships. Their real
economic impact on the city. How much money is made by the cruise lines and
their shareholders, how much actually comes into the city, and who in Venice
gets that money. How many jobs truly depend upon the current arrangement, and
how many jobs would be created by alternatives, such as building a new cruise
ship terminal at Punta Sabbioni on Lido. Or in Marghera.”
“There are a lot
of interested parties that say that the passenger terminal, for example, must
remain exactly where it is. But it’s not a matter of making Venice compatible
with the cruise industry, it’s a matter of making the cruise industry
compatible with Venice. Otherwise we run the risk of losing the very city that
all those passengers come to see.”
Ms Da Mosta said "This means a thorough and well-founded examination of the costs and benefits of each option, based upon research performed by disinterested experts, rather than outdated studies often commissioned by those with a vested interest, such as the Port Authority itself." How in heck does one get an independent analysis? There are so many vested interests.
ReplyDeleteI'm not usually a pessimistic person, but I have such fear for the future of Venice. Please, prove me wrong.
That's the million dollar question, isn't it, Yvonne? (And not just in Italy.) But impossible as such questions sometimes (or often) seem, we have to keep asking them, if only to continually reassert an ideal of something more than mere cronyism and falsification. At least that's what I tell myself.
DeleteWhat I don't understand is why they don't move the port authority and the port to Chioggia or Punta Sabbioni, the ships will not come into the lagoon and cars will be able to bring supplies for the ships. I bet it would cost as much as deepening the canal. I am getting more and more discouraged by all this, Venice as we all knew it is disappearing, and it is all because of greed. My hopes to ever go back and live there are getting smaller and smaller.
ReplyDeleteOne response to this, Laura, is that the fine people who dream of cruising to Venice want the experience of going right past the city, where it lies beneath their feet, as if vanquished, for their leisurely perusal. If the port is on Lido they will not have this towering experience, this "once in a lifetime" experience of mastery. Of course they can get a similar view by going up the campanile of S Giorgio Maggiore but the promise of contemporary capitalism is that everything will be delivered unto you before you even need express a desire as if you were an infant in your crib and mama and the breast (those sweet corporate providers) were ever nearby. I've seen travel agents quoted to this effect--though obviously not in those terms--many times: if the ships don't go past Venice the sheep, oops, passengers, won't come.
DeleteThe even more direct answer is that the canal is what Paolo Costa wants, and few people have any doubt that Costa is pulling the strings on all this.
Of course a deep water canal already exists: the one that runs from Marghera to the port, but it would require the ships to pass through the blighted industrial landscape that is Marghera and that is simply to ugly a sight for the delicate sensibilities of cruise ship passengers.
Ironically, such a route would confront them with the lasting disaster wrought by the "great economic solution" to post-republican Venice's chronic under-employment put forth in the early 20th century, even as they themselves participate in the wreaking a new and lasting disaster on the city and lagoon by participating in the "great economic solution" (cruise ships) offered to Venice in the early 21st.